Travel

Four Days in Copenhagen – A Food and Coffee Guide

26/05/2015

I have spent the past four days in Copenhagen and – once again – I have fallen in love with this city! I first visited two years ago, also in May when the days are long and the weather is mild. I have already blogged about Copenhagen (read all my Copenhagen Food and Coffee posts), so I am not going to add much with regards to visiting the city, but I do have a few additions to my favourite food and coffee spots.

Four Days in Copenhagen While two years ago I spent most of the time in the town centre and in Norrebro, this time I explored a lot more of Vesterbro and the “meatpacking” district, as that’s where our Airbnb (a gorgeous top floor studio) was located.

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We had nice meals at Paté Paté on our first day and at Neighbourhood on the last day. Both were a few minutes’ walk from our apartment and we could get a table at lunch without bookings. In the evenings, Copenhagen’s most popular restaurants are all busy so make sure to book your table a few days or a week ahead.

Parmesan Omelette at Paté Paté

Parmesan Omelette with salad and bacon at Paté Paté.

Crisp pizza with goats cheese, Parma ham, figs, capers and black olive paste at Neighbourhood.

Crisp pizza with goats cheese, Parma ham, figs, capers and black olive paste at Neighbourhood.

Also in Vesterbro: we had a good, but not over the top dinner at Madklubben and a good, but overpriced breakfast at Granola.

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I also went back to one of my favourite restaurants, Manfreds, in Norrebro for dinner on Friday, preceded by a drink at nearby Mikkeller & Friends.

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Dish of the day at Manfreds.

Dish of the day at Manfreds.

We tried Manfreds’ “sister” restaurant Bæst, an Italian restaurant with a heavy focus on organic meats and produce. Their Neapolitan-style pizza with homemade mozzarella was very good!

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Other food highlights of my trips: the vegan BBQ burger with Sweet Monkey relish at Astrid och Aporna on Jægersborggade, Norrebro. Much better and tastier than the “real” beef burger I had the day before at Madklubben.

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Also in Norrebro, I loved the gelato from Isværket (chocolate and almond ice-cream with a fluffy marshmallow cream on top, called guf).

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Finally I have to recommend, again, Lagkagehuset. It’s a chain, so you will find shops all over the city, including the Central train station and the airport terminal. I love their cinnamon bread and the Christianshavner Tart. Their filter coffee is not too bad either!

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Speaking of coffee, Coffee Collective is of course a must visit, whether it’s their original shop in Copenhagen’s coolest street Jægersborggade, the roastery in Godthåbsvej or the bar inside Torvehallerne Food Market.

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My favourite cafe in Copenhagen though is Kent Kaffe Laboratorium, because of relaxed atmosphere of the spacious shop, but mostly because the owner is always happy to chat about coffee and open to give recommendations without being a coffee snob or coming across as pushy.

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During this trip I also discovered Rist Kaffebar and Enghave Kaffe in Vesterbro: both good neighbourhood shops.

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The best part of my visit to Copenhagen was that I explored the city on bike this time, something I regretted not doing the first time around. It is definitely the best way to see and experience the city.

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That’s how the locals do it, that’s how you should be doing it!

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If you are not a confident bicycle rider or don’t know the city well enough to explore it on two wheels, the best way to get started is to do a bike tour with Bike Mike. The tour starts from the centre (nearby the trendy boutique hotel SP34), lasts 3 1/2 hours and costs 299 DKK (£30).

During the tour we visited the Medieval town centre, Christiansborg, the Black Diamond Royal Library, the harbour, Nyhavn, Amalienborg and of course the Little Mermaid, before riding back to the centre via Torvehallerne – Copenhagen’s food market.

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I already knew most of the city from my previous visit in 2013, but thanks to the tour I discovered the Design Museum…

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…and a charming street, called Wiedeweltsgade, near the Botanic Garden.

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As we were blessed by two sunny days, we made the most of it by spending a few hours by the harbour on Sunday: sitting on deck chairs and sipping local beer while watching boats sail by.

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In that exact moment I was feeling so happy and at home that all I could think about was “I have to live in this city”! Do you ever get that feeling when visiting a new place? For me Copenhagen is a city that has so much to offer that I would definitely welcome the opportunity to spend a few years there and experience it all!

Maybe one day my dream will come true. Until then…I will keep dreaming of my days in Copenhagen!

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Check out my post A Coffee Tour of Copenhagen about the top specialty coffee shops in Copenhagen. Read my other travel and food guides of Copenhagen.

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Brian's Coffee Spot
10/07/2016 11:23

I’ve just got back from Copenhagen and would second everything you say. The one thing I didn’t get was the good weather (I had at least one torrential downpour per day!) so I never did get around to renting a bike.

Many thanks,
Brian.

Giulia Mulè
11/07/2016 09:12

I was really really lucky with the weather, but on my last morning it rained and I could see how it completely changed the vibe of the city.

Erin Gustafson
Erin Gustafson
10/06/2015 09:29

I do live here and feel very lucky! Great pics and tips.

Giulia Mulè
10/06/2015 13:26
Reply to  Erin Gustafson

Lucky to live in CPH! I hope one day I will too! :D

Juliet Oscar Yankee
01/06/2015 09:11

looks like you had lots of fun! and the food… again I don’t know why I read your posts when I’m hungry haha – I’d love to visit Copenhagen too!

Giulia Mulè
01/06/2015 16:29

You must, it’s a fantastic city!

The slow pace
The slow pace
27/05/2015 08:55

We’d love to live in Copenhagen too! It’s such a charming city! We’ll be back in September for a week so we’ll have plenty of time to check those coffee places!!!
Did you finally try Geist?
xx,
E. & P.
http://www.theslowpace.com

Giulia Mulè
28/05/2015 15:09
Reply to  The slow pace

We didn’t go to Geist in the end. We were both feeling very tired and half asleep at our rented flat in Vesterbro, so we ended up cancelling the reservation…But I will go next time I’m in Copenhagen!

The slow pace
The slow pace
31/05/2015 17:53
Reply to  Giulia Mulè

I completely understand. In fact we usually never book restaurants for dinner because we are always exhausted / lazy to go out after a full day of exploring. I think we just go out for dinner in Copenhagen and London. The rest of the time: seven o’clock and pijamas are on!!!! :)

Giulia Mulè
28/05/2015 15:12
Reply to  The slow pace

Thanks for all the other tips, we tried Neighbourhood pizza for lunch and loved it!

The slow pace
The slow pace
31/05/2015 17:50
Reply to  Giulia Mulè

Oh, it’s amazing! I saw on Instagram that you chose precisely the same pizza that we ate! Happy you liked it!

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