Exploring Borough Market in London

This week I went back to one of London’s most beautiful and famous markets: Borough Market. It was a pleasure browsing the market halls on a week day, for a change! I have always been on Saturdays when Londoners and tourists visit en masse and it can be a bit tricky to move through the crowd and buying lunch from the street food stalls requires some queuing. Either way though it’s a beautiful place and if you have never been, then you must visit soon!

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My Instagram friend and fellow food blogger Asha of Fork Spoon Knife was in London visiting from the States, so we decided to meet up for coffee at Monmouth and for a walk in the market.

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Obviously you cannot visit Borough Market without stopping at Bread Ahead to buy doughnuts, so that’s exactly what we did! :)

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The main reason for our visit though was to meet one of the Borough Market’s marketing team to learn about the events they regularly organise in the Demo Kitchen and new Market Hall. They are currently organising an event taking place this Sunday 14th December, which I am happy to promote: Tom Hunt’s Feast of the Seven Fishes.

The Feast of 7 fishes is a traditional Italian christmas feast […] Tom will be representing 7 species of fish that will be caught using sustainable fishing methods from recommended healthy stocks. The banquet will be created using surplus fresh ingredients gathered at the end of the trading week, giving unwanted wonky vegetables, blemished fruits, wild, foraged ingredients and cuts of fish a new purpose. [Official Press Release]

Standard tickets cost £43, but you can get them with 20% discount using this promo code: GIULIAMULE20. 50% of the profits from ticket sales for this event will be donated to a food waste charity, Fareshare. The event will take place in the new Market Hall.

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After our visit, Asha and I had lunch at Elliot’s, a lovely cafe and restaurant which is part of the market.

Being based in the inspiring environment that is Borough Market, our menu is created using the diverse ingredients available and in season. We have a simple but mindful approach to our cooking that allows the ingredients to dictate the menu but to be prepared in such a way as to show them at their absolute best.

I had crab salad on toast with a side of cavolo nero, almonds and onions, while Asha had the lamb tongue.

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Borough-Market-London-41

A stroll along the Southbank after lunch was beautiful, though quite cold this time of the year. I took these photos with my phone, just before dropping it because I couldn’t feel my hands anymore!

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I am definitely enjoying having the time to explore my city during the week and doing things I wouldn’t have had time to do when I had a full time job! :)

Trastevere Food Tour with Eating Italy

I have lived in Rome for twenty-four years so – even discounting the first ten when I was a kid – you would expect I’d know all the good, traditional places to eat Roman food right? Well, that’s not the case, as I discovered while attending the Eating Italy food tour of Trastevere. I had never been to any of the places we visited during the tour and all of them turned out to be pretty amazing. I can’t wait to go back to Rome to try them all again!

So let’s start from the beginning…

Eating Italy is a tour company based in Rome that organizes daily food tours (in Testaccio and Trastevere) and culinary classes.

“Our mission is to leave travelers with an unparalleled, non-touristy, food-related experience in undiscovered neighborhoods of the most fascinating cities in the world.”

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I was invited to try their Daylight Trastevere Tour and so, on a hot September day, my mum and I joined a group of about 10 people (Australian, Americans, Israelis – the tour is in English) to explore the charming medieval neighbourhood that lies across the river from Rome’s city centre.

With its narrow cobblestone streets and laneways, Trastevere is the quintessential Roman neighborhood. While by night it is a happening destination for tourists and locals, during the day, Trastevere is like a small village with its timeless and artisan shops serving the same local families for generations.

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The Eating Italy Trastevere tour is a 4-hour guided walking food tour; we did most of the eating while standing on the sidewalk in front of a shop or in the market, but we also had one sit-down meal at a typical Roman trattoria. We did 10 tastings in total and, with all the walking, I definitely needed a lie down! ;) But it was fantastic of course and I would totally recommend it to anyone visiting Rome!

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We met our guide Valerio just before 11:00 at the “Antica Caffetteria Berti” and started the tour from a small pastry shop next door, where we tried bignè alla crema (choux pastry with cream). They are traditional Roman pastries and the bite-sized version that we tried on the tour is called mignon.

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Next stop was just around the corner at I Supplì where I ate one of the best supplì (fried tomato risotto balls filled with mozzarella) I have ever tasted! This Roman speciality is also known as “supplì al telefono” because when you break the oblong ball in half with your hand you should get a long cheese string resembling a telephone cord!

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Then we entered the nearby shop called L’Antica Caciara, a cheese shop and local institution where we tasted a fantastic Pecorino Romano (made from the sheep’s milk from the owners’ farm). 

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Followed by a juicy and delicious Porchetta at Norcineria Iacozzilli. Norcineria is an interesting kind of shop (rarely you encounter one in Rome nowadays) as it’s a place dedicated exclusively (at least in the old times) to the manufacture and sale of pork. They produce their own sausages, guanciale, pork, salami and ham as well as selling buffalo mozzarella, cheese and bread.

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Having exhausted all the food offers of via Natale del Grande, we moved on to Piazza San Cosimato to visit the local outdoor food market, which dates back to the beginning of the 20th century and is open from Mondays to Saturdays. We stopped at Pietro and Concetta’s fruit and vegetable stand, a family tradition as Concetta’s grandmother opened her stand in Piazza San Cosimato in 1945!

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We tasted their figs and melon paired with Parma ham from the the cured meats and cheese stall managed by Emiliano.

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It was time for something sweet and Fatamorgana located in the same square was the perfect destination for our tour. The famous ice-cream shop specialises in all-natural and gluten-free gelato and offers a selection of exciting flavours such as Chocolate Kentucky with Tobacco & Cinnamon Cream or Vanilla Tahiti with Apple Pieces & Raspberry Sauce! This is what famous food blogger David Lebovitz wrote about it:

I decided to go for it and had Kentucky, flavored with chocolate and tobacco, ricotta-coconut, and pure zabaglione. When I took my cup outside and spooned in my first bite, I almost started crying. In fact, I did cry a bit—it was so good.

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The following stop on the tour was about ten minutes’ walk away so we took the chance to explore the narrow cobblestone streets and laneways of Trastevere, while listening to Valerio’s tales about this quintessential Roman neighborhood.

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Forno La Renella was one of the most interesting stops for me, because we had the chance to visit the bakery and see the old bread oven. What a beauty! And did you know they burn hazelnut shells instead of wood to add a special flavour to their bread? It was indeed delicious (as we had the pleasure to taste it later at lunch).

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Before moving on with the tour we ate a piece of pizza margherita. I didn’t say slice, because pizza here is sold “al taglio”: by weight and cut into squares or strips (depending how much of it you want). Pizza al taglio can be plain with olive oil (pizza bianca), with tomato sauce (pizza rossa) or with tomato, mozzarella and different toppings.

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Now believe it or not, all the stops we had so far where just “starters”! Small tastings to tickle our appetites before lunch at Osteria Der Belli. It was nice to sit down and rest in the shade, while eating three different types of pasta and drinking chilled white wine from Frascati (a hilltown in the outskirts of Rome famous for its wineries). We had Ravioli with Ricotta and Tomato sauce; Spaghetti alla Carbonara (a must!) and Tagliatelle ai Funghi Porcini.

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Sitting all around the table for half an hour or so was a great way to get to know the other people on the tour. It was a nice group of people, all of them tourists and on their first day in the city. It’s a great idea to schedule this tour for your first day in the city, because the guide will not only give you lots of information about Roman food, but also about the city. It’s a great way to familiarise yourself with a new environment!

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After lunch we needed a break from eating, so instead we visited the neighbourhood’s main attraction: Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest churches in Rome, which features a Romanesque campanile and beautiful mosaics with golden details. The square outside the church is the centre of Trastevere and a meeting point for youngsters.

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The last two stops on the Eating Italy tour were in a different part of the Trastevere, on the east side, across Viale Trastevere. We visited Biscottificio Innocenzi, a family-owned cookie factory that dates back to three generations (grand-mother, mother and daughter). We all gathered inside the shop to sample three types of biscuits. The brutti ma buoni (lit. ugly but tasty) were so good that my mum and I bought a bag to take home to dad (I even took some back to London for my husband to try, they were still fragrant and tasty after four days)!

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We finished our tour at Da Enzo al 29, a Roman trattoria that I had never tried before, but my mum knew about for being hard to find a table at!

A tiny trattoria tucked down a picturesque, cobbled backstreet of Trastevere, Da Enzo is run by three siblings. Boasting a menu offering the very best of Cucina Romana there is nowhere better to try classics such as carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) and the coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew).

 

We didn’t try any of the main courses, but we did taste their fantastic Tiramisù, a generous portion served in a glass and unconventionally prepared with a dollop of Nutella in the centre. I’m picky about Tiramisù that deviates from the traditional recipe but who am I to say no to Nutella!?

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The Eating Italy tour was so much more than just a food tour. It features some unique cultural and historical sites that few tourists (or even Romans) get an opportunity to see! Our guide was fantastic and, reading all the positive reviews on Trip Advisor I can see that all the Eating Italy guides have made a great impressions. From what I have experienced (and I speak for my mum too), Eating Italy food tours are a great way to discover Rome.

 You’ll enter a tourist and leave a local, a feeling you won’t soon forget.

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Disclaimer: I attended the tour as a guest of Eating Italy. All opinions are my own.

Recipes from Brixton Village

Recipes from Brixton Village is the new cookbook by Miss South, one half of the duo behind the North South Food blog. Award-winning Miss South has lived in Brixton for ten years and for the last four she has shared recipes and reviews of local restaurants on her site (alongside her brother Mister North). Her dishes are seasonal and feature the best ingredients she can find at local markets (she shops on a limited budget and rarely buys food from supermarkets).

Miss South first book "Recipes from Brixton Village" features contributions from the traders of Brixton Village, a place I adore and which I have blogged about a few times already (here). Publishers Kitchen Press invited me to the press launch in Brixton Village last month, during which Miss South and Lindsay Faller of London walks' company Fox & Squirrel guided me on a tour of the market to put the book into context, meet traders and sample some of the dishes featured in the book.

Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village

Recipes from Brixton Village celebrates the incredible diversity on offer in the market. Miss South has pulled together a vibrant collection of recipes contributed from many of the traders as well as her own recipes showcasing the wonderful produce available from the fishmongers and grocers in the Village. Ranging from real market favourites like Jerk Chicken and Okonomyaki to seafood treats like Etta’s fish soup or Barbecued Mackerel with Amalfi Lemon and Rosemary, the recipes come from every corner of the globe.

Kitchen Press Website

We started at Brixton Cornercopia, a neighbourhood restaurant and cornershop by Anne Fairbrother and chef Ian Riley, where you can sample dishes prepared with local and sustainable ingredients.

We ate Beetroot & Sheep's Milk Cheese Pasties and Three Cornered Leek Fritters that were cooked to perfection and tasted amazing.

Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village

After a brief chat with Anne and Ian we walked to Jalisco, a Mexican restaurant by Venezuelan Wilson Porras and Yexeli Sanchez. Jalisco's menu features Mexican dishes that the British people know and love, although Wilson still uses his mum recipes, making Jalisco effectively a Mexican-Venezuelan food joint.

We tasted their delicious Shredded-Beef Tacos and Tamarind Margaritas, made with tamarind pulp and twice-distilled "silver" tequila.

Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village

Next stop was Fish, Wings & Tings, the Caribbean restaurant by Brian Danclair (I blogged about it here).

Brian showed us how he makes his famous Codfish Fritters with Ginger & Lime Aioli, a recipe featured in Miss South book which looks super easy to make at home. All you need is boiled salted cod, flour, chilli peppers, onions, spring onions and water (though I'm sure it would take me years of practice to make it as good as Brian's)!

Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village

After all the savoury dishes it was time for some dessert at nearby Lab G, an artisan ice-cream shop where you can taste authentic Italian gelato freshly made by Giovanni every day.

The Salted Caramel Ice-cream is Lab G's most famous flavour, so we had to try it of course! Obviously I had already tasted Lab G ice-cream before, you know being Italian and all it is my duty to find the best gelato in London! ;)

Look at those creamy cups of joy! I reclaimed one from the other bloggers and journalists and ate it all by myself. It was incredible!

Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village

The final stop of our food walk was Snugg: a recent addition to Brixton Village, it's a tea room and café where you can also enjoy fantastic food platters by chef Ella Killingley, cocktails and live music.

Visit Snugg for coffee and cakes, as well as their savoury dishes which are a mix of classic English, Mediterranean and African. We were treated to their Cheese & Mushroom Tarts and Salmon and Pate Crostini with a cup of freshly-brewed coffee made with a French Press.

Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village
Recipes from Brixton Village

I have a copy of Miss South book and I can't wait to start cooking from it, recreating at home my favourite dishes from the market!

Recipes from Brixton Village was published on the 22nd of May and went straight to number one in the Restaurant Cookbook category on Amazon UK! Check out the book and most of all visit Brixton Village (and nearby Market Row) to support our amazing market traders!

Disclaimer: I received a complimentary copy of the book and I was invited to the food walk as part of the book press launch. All opinions are my own.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

While on holiday in Trieste two weeks ago, my parents, my husband and I decided to drive across the border to Slovenia and explore its capital city of Ljubljana. Only one hour and a half away from Trieste, it was the perfect destination for a day trip.

My aunt warned us that Ljubljana would be a few degrees colder than Trieste and that is because the city is located in a basin surrounded by the Alps and Dinaric mountain ranges. We left the sun and a balmy Italian weather behind us and drove through a thick fog until we reached Ljubljana.

The mist around the weeping willow trees by the Ljubljanica river created an eerie atmosphere, while the Christmas decorations, lights and mulled wine stalls gave the city a cheerful and festive feel.

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia

Ljubljana's major meeting point is the recently renovated central square, Prešernov trg. From there, cross the Triple Bridge to the charming medieval Old Town: a cluster of narrow streets with quirky shops, Baroque townhouses and stately churches wrapped around a castle-topped hill.

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia

After a visit to Mestni trg, the Town Square, we walked back along the river bank to Vodnik trg where a food market is held every day. We bought a bag of delicious apples for less than two euros (and later wished we had bought more!). On Saturday, the market square is a popular place to gather, to meet people and "be seen".

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia

We stopped in one of the restaurants on the square, the Vodnikov Hram, and had a warming and satisfying meal of local food. I ordered the Ljubljanska, a fried veal steak stuffed with ham and cheese, with a side of pan-cooked potatoes. It was incredibly heavy, but equally delicious!

For dessert we shared a Gibanica, a traditional Slovenian cake made with poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins, and dry curd cottage cheese layered between filo pastry.

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia

Afterwards we took advantage of a short spell of blue sky and took the funicular up to the Ljubljana Castle. Even without buying the ticket to the viewing tower, we could still enjoy a spectacular (and free) view of the city from one of the castle fortified walls.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

On our way back to the city centre we stopped at Ljubljana's only specialty coffee shop, Cafe Cokl, where we managed to find a small table to seat and drink a very good macchiato (they also make filter coffee on Aeropress and Chemex).

We walked back to the Town Square where the Baroque buildings were beautifully lit with Christmas decorations.

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia

I fell in love with Ljubljana and I hope to explore more of Slovenia soon (Lake Bled is already on top of my list)!

Roast: a very British cookbook

Roast is a British restaurant located in the Floral Hall mezzanine inside Borough Market. Opened in 2005, the restaurant's aim is to use seasonal and sustainable produce from the country's best farmers and fishermen and celebrate Britain's heritage and ingredients.

Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook

The elegant restaurant is divided into a narrow bar with glass walls overlooking the market and a large dining room with an open kitchen. I had been to Roast before for breakfast during the summer, but last week I had the chance to try their dinner menu. The occasion was the launch of Roast: a very British cookbook, written by Head Chef Marcus Verberne.

Featuring dishes for all occasions, from breakfasts and brunches through to lunches and dinners, this stunning tome recreates for the home cook some of Roast’s most popular fare. Alongside all the classics can be found a host of new favourites in this best of British selection of fish, poultry, lamb, mutton, goat, pork, beef, game and vegetables, plus many ideas for puddings, cocktails and wines.

Press Release

Roast: a very British cookbook

With the occasion of the launch last Thursday, the menu featured many dishes from the cookbook (obviously adapting some recipes depending on what's in season). The chef Marcus Verberne came to our table before dinner to present the cookbook to us and describe his experience writing it.

Roast is Marcus Verberne's first cookbook, but I wouldn't be surprised if he decided to write another one. Originally from New Zealand, Marcus is obviously very passionate about British cooking and spoke to us with great enthusiasm about the process of recipe writing and research.

While fruit, vegetables, bread and cheese are all sourced locally at Borough Market, the meat and fish served at Roast are sourced from outside London. Marcus often travels across the country to meet the restaurant's suppliers, like Coast Seafood in Dorset or different farms in Yorkshire. For the cookbook, he had the opportunity to travel with photographer Lara Holmes, who documented the project's developments with stunning photos.

Over 100 recipes illustrate Verberne’s dual approach: to source the best local produce on offer and to let the flavours and textures speak for themselves.

Press Release

Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook

What I most love about the cookbook is the "basics" section, with simple recipes like roast potatoes, bread sauce or poached eggs. My cooking skills have developed by trial and error, without guidance, so it's useful to go back to the basics and learn how to get perfect results with a few simple instructions! :)

The book also contains step-by-step photos of more unfamiliar preparations, like opening an oyster or butchering a duck. The images by Lara Holmes are evocative and beautiful, worth alone the price of the book.

During our dinner at Roast last week, we were welcomed at our table with a glass of champagne and bread and olives to snack on. I didn't order any starters, but I tasted the Creamed Somerset organic spelt with woodland mushrooms and hedgerow garlic. I had no idea spelt could be used to make a creamy risotto! It was really delicious.

The Seared Isle of Mull hand-dived scallops with whipped apple mash and smoked black pudding also looked great.

Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook

As a main course I ordered the Roast breast of Yorkshire cock pheasant with sprout top hearts, chestnuts and wild boar bacon. The recipe for the sprouts is included in the Roast cookbook and I can't wait to try it: the sprouts are used like baskets and filled with a sauce of chestnuts and bacon. An original way to cook Brussels sprouts!

I also indulged in the different side dishes that were served at our table: crispy roast potatoes, soft parsnips, broccoli and cabbage. Everything was so tasty! I filled my tummy with vegetables and barely left any space for dessert…

Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook

Just kidding! ;) For dessert I ordered the Sticky Date Pudding with toffee sauce and Neil's Year crème fraîche, another recipe that is available in the cookbook and that I will surely try. It was perfectly executed and I really liked how it paired well with the crème fraîche.

Marcus came back to our table to talk us through the dessert list and recommended us the Sea Buckthorn Berry Posset, which my friend Wendy ordered (and I tasted). What makes the sea-buckthorn berries so special is that they grow on the Cornish coasts and are very difficult to pick, as their branches are very thorny. The best way is to do it is to freeze a whole branch and then break the thorns and release the frozen berries.

I also tasted the Poached pear with ginger shortbread and walnut and honey ice cream which Federica ordered and it was delicious.

Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook
Roast: a very British cookbook

Overall I had a fantastic dinner at Roast (with lovely wine) and would definitely recommend it. It is an elegant environment, so it's perfect for a romantic date or a special occasion.

Roast: a very British cookbook will be published by Absolute Press on 7th November 2013. The hardback will be available from all good retailers, online and in store, for a RRP of £25.

Disclaimer: I was a guest at the restaurant and I received a complimentary copy of the book. All views are my own.

Roast on Urbanspoon

Blog ‘n’ Bake at Street Feast

Last Monday I received an email from Street Feast inviting me to take part to #BloggerSaturday, an opportunity for London's best bloggers "to cook and sell anything they wish".

My first emotions were curiosity mixed with fear: no way I could do it all on my own, so I turned to my friends and fellow foodies Wendy, Sam and Hannah for help. They didn't immediately say yes, but as we started throwing ideas around, it was clear we couldn't contain our excitement!

We are all passionate bakers and have been baking together a couple of times in the past few months (see my pizza and pie posts), but now we needed a name to promote our cakes as a team: that's how the Blog 'n' Bake collective was born!

Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast

Unfortunately our first experience as market traders was marked by relentless rain, but that didn't affect our enthusiasm! Despite being sleep-deprived from the late night baking sessions and having to stand in rain puddles, we still had loads of fun chatting to our customers and to the other food bloggers that took part to the event!

A special mention to Honest Burgers, the best neighbours one could ever have, for trading their burgers with our cakes! ;)

Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast

It was a true collective effort as each one of us baked their favourite cakes! I made two Carrot Cakes (with and without walnuts) and one Chocolate Cheesecake; Hannah made Nanaimo Bars (Canada's favourite dessert!); Wendy made Tart au Citron, vegan Pistachio Cookies and Coconut Jam ("kaya"); Sam made Chocolate & Blueberry Brownies, Lemon Pound Cake and Lemon Bars – all paleo.

I am happy to report that we nearly sold out: only a few portions were left to take home for breakfast the next day! :)

Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast

Thank you Adam, Tweat Up and Street Feast for organising #BloggerSaturday and letting us be a part of it! Thanks to all our friends and bloggers who braved the rain to show their support and try our cakes.

A special thank you to my husband Sandy who travelled all the way to Dalston to carry my cakes – I couldn't have done it without you!

And finally – THANK YOU to Sam, Hannah and Wendy for accepting the challenge and changing their plans to be with me on Saturday! I heart the Blog 'n' Bake collective! :)

Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast
Blog 'n' Bake at Street Feast

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere

At the end of January I spent a weekend in Rome visiting family and friends. My best friend Giovanna took me out for lunch in a new restaurant in the Trastevere, called Fish Market.

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere

We arrived at noon on a Saturday; early for Roman standards, where it is common to have lunch around 2pm. It was a good move to avoid the weekend crowd and we were able to sit immediately in the almost empty room.

The idea behind this new venture is to enjoy fish in a quick and affordable way, so that you wouldn't spend more than "eating a pizza", as the owners say.

You can easily have a great meal anywhere in Rome, but rarely restaurants also impress me for their décor. At the Fish Market, I loved the food, the concept and the space, as everything was clearly done with great attention to detail.

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere

At the entrance of the restaurant there is a large fish case, where the fresh catch of the day is displayed; behind it, stand the chefs in the open kitchen.

You can order anything you see on the stall and choose how to have it cooked, grilled or battered. There is also a specials' board on the wall and a menu with a few starters and sfizi di mare, small fish plates to tickle your appetite.

The ordering system is simple: you fill a paper form with a pencil, ticking the boxes of all the items you want to eat, go to the till and pay. The food is then served at the table.

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere

I would have loved to try everything, but as it was just two of us, we had to control ourselves. I picked a bruschetta con pomodoro as a starter, while Giovanna ordered a Tuna Tartare.

To warm ourselves from the winter cold, we both ordered the Caciucco alla Livornese, a fish stew made with the traditional Tuscan way, with tomato sauce and toasted bread added on top. It was lovely!

I also ordered fried calamari and fried vegetables, which tasted amazing when hot and crispy. Unfortunately, everything was served at the same time, so by the time I had finished the stew, the fried food had become a bit cold and soggy.

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere

After lunch, we strolled around the cobbled streets and Medieval houses of Trastevere, busking in beautiful Roman sun.

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere

I crossed the river Tevere at Ponte Garibaldi and continued my walk to the city centre, through Pantheon and eventually reached Villa Borghese to watch the sunset from the Terrazza del Pincio.

What a wonderful sight! Rome, my hometown, I hope to see you again soon!

Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere
Fish Market in Rome Trastevere